Meursault, Côte de Beaune

Albert Grivault

Grivault is a 'cult' producer of the historic kind, and one who’s wines are rarely seen. I recently saw a 2004 Grivault 1er Cru Perrières in a Burgundy shop; purchased it; and it was one of the best whites I have ever had. To that extent, a major client of the Domaine is Madame Bize-Leroy, who buys that same bottled Meursault Perrières every year to release under her own Leroy label! It's fair to say that this is hands-down a staff favourite and one of those Burgundy's best 'insider' Domaines.

In 2019 the Domaine celebrated its 140th anniversary. On visiting the cellars around that time, I felt a palpable sense of history and an almost museum or monastic-like feeling similar to the way I feel at Wendouree in Clare here in Australia. This is old-school Burgundy winemaking in a great sense but with exceptionally-sited plots. The Meursault Perrières is the greatest 1er Cru in the appellation, and the Bardet family (Clare and Henri-Marc with their father Michael) own two parcels totalling 1.6ha in addition to the near mythical monopole ownership of the 1ha Clos de Perrières that is Grand Cru like (more on that below).

These are wines that have a history of ageing well (also more on that below) and the production methods haven't changed much in over 50 years! Cheers, Randall.

The Clos - Meursault and Bourgogne

The Bardet family owns the Clos de Mergers, a 2.5ha stone-walled enclosure right in the heart of the village (between the fire station and the des Cloux stream). This site has 1.5ha of Meursault villages and a 1ha portion that was not planted at the time of AOC classification, meaning it's for now only Bourgogne classified... and a truly great Bourgogne at that.

1er cru Perrières and the Clos de Perrières

The Domaine has two plots totalling 1.5ha of Meursault's best 1er Cru, Perrières, and the 1ha "epicentre" monopole, the Clos de Perrières. This site situated above 1er Cru les Charmes and on the border of Puligny 1er Cru Champs Canet, was an old quarry. Perrières often costs as much as a Grand Cru and with its lofty position on the hill matched with shallow soil and limestone base comes many producers treasuring their plots and making great wines.

The "Bull's eye" plot, Clos de Perrières, with its lichen-covered stone wall, has the same exposition, same geology and exactly the same altitude as Grand Cru Montrachet, and has been classified in the past (by Lavalle) as being second only to the Grand Cru Montrachets. It produces a statuesque white of great depth and profundity.

Pommard 1er Cru Clos Blanc

Near the old Pommard train station-looking building on the "upper main road" of the Route de Beaune, just above the large Chateau du Pommard Clos Marey-Monge enclosure is the 1er Cru Clos Blanc. It's a red wine site, called such because in the 12th century it was planted with whites. It's next to the better-known and much bigger Les Grands Epenots and makes wines of solid structure, rich fruit and a ferruginous grip.

“...one of the great domaines of Meursault, especially with its substantial holding of Les Perrières and the monopole of the Clos des Perrières bought by the original Albert Grivault in 1879.”

- Jasper Morris MW

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